Negotiation cheat sheet
Bring this with you. Reference it in the F&I office. The dealer counts on you not knowing what's negotiable and what's bogus.
Fees to refuse
These are profit padding. Politely decline.
Dealer prep / pre-delivery inspection
The manufacturer already paid the dealer to prep the car. Charging you again is double-dipping. Common amounts: $200–$800.
VIN etching / theft protection
Marked up 10× from the $30 cost. You can buy the kit yourself — or refuse it entirely.
Nitrogen-filled tires
Charged $50–$200. Air is 78% nitrogen for free. The benefit is negligible for daily driving.
Paint sealant / fabric protection
Often $500–$1,500 for a coat of wax and Scotchgard. A $20 detailing kit gives the same result.
'Market adjustment' / addendum sticker
Pure dealer markup above MSRP. Always negotiable — walk if they won't drop it.
Extended warranty (at sticker price)
Marked up 100–300%. If you want one, third-party providers (or buying directly from the manufacturer) cost half.
What's actually negotiable
Don't let them tell you these are 'fixed.'
Sale price
Always start here, not on monthly payment.
Doc fee
Capped by law in many states. Check your state — refuse anything above the cap.
Trade-in value
Get an independent offer from CarMax or Carvana first as leverage.
Interest rate
Get pre-approved at your bank or credit union. Make the dealer beat it.
Add-on packages
Refuse them all up front. You can add them later.
Scripts that work
Copy these. Use them word-for-word if you want.
"I'm not focused on monthly. I want to negotiate the out-the-door price. Once we agree on that, we can talk financing."
"I'm only paying MSRP. If you can't do that, I'll find one elsewhere — there are 12 of these on AutoTrader within 200 miles."
"I'll review those after I leave today. Please give me a quote in writing and I'll get back to you within 30 days." (Industry rule: you can almost always add them later.)"
"Stay quiet. Don't fill the silence by raising your offer. They're using the pause as a pressure tactic."
"Show me your best rate. I have a pre-approval at X% from my credit union — beat it and I'll finance with you."
Red flags — walk away
If you see these, the dealer isn't worth your time.
- Refuses to email an out-the-door price breakdown before you visit
- Won't share the Carfax / vehicle history report
- '4-square' worksheet that focuses on monthly payment instead of total price
- Pressure to sign today with 'this price is only good now'
- Add-ons listed as if they're mandatory (they're not)
- Doc fee significantly above your state's average or cap